Lace yoke sweater featuring increases borrowed from Estonian lace knitting.
Announcing my first-ever KAL - knit-along, that is. I'm finally over my grief, thanks to finding five beautiful skeins of Tanis Fiber Arts Purewash DK in stunning shades of blue, teal and violet, and I'm ready to face down recreating my lost Galore sweater. And I'm hoping you'll want to knit along with me!
I'm going to host this KAL over on Instagram, so first things first, come follow me there - I'm stephanieearple.
Who can join: Anyone with an Instagram account.
What we're knitting: The Galore sweater by Stephanie Earp. Here's the Ravelry pattern page.
When: Start date will be July 30th 2018 and the KAL will end on October 12, 2018. (I'm planning to make this my Rhinebeck sweater.)
Share: Tag your Instagram yarn choice and in-progress shots with the hashtag #galorealong and be sure to tag me @stephanieearple so I don't miss them. Tag your finished object post with #galorealongFO and tag me @stephanieearple by October 12 to be entered to win prizes.
Prizes: I'll draw a random winner for a prize pack including a wrist ruler from I Love Handles, Knitter's Helper Progress Keepers from Twill & Print and some squishy, pretty yarn yet to be determined!
My yarns are Tanis Fiber Arts Purewash DK in Cobalt, Teal, Cosmic Night, Tartan and Lightning
Easy triangular shawl, knit in lace weight yarn.
I was so thrilled to work with both these yarns from two indie dyers I admire with such different points of view. Stephanie at Asylum Fibers has a very cool gothic thing going on (I mean, just check out her colour names) and Annie at Knitting It Up draws her inspiration from all things pop culture (her 'Friends' themed fade kit is stunning.)
And both of them have offered a complete kit to make the Flying Vee for this giveaway. Thank you so much!
It's pretty simple: buy the pattern on Ravelry anytime between its release on Thursday April 26, 2018 and midnight EST May 7, 2018 and you are entered into a random draw for one of the two kits. The Asylum Fibers kit is for the same colourways I used in my sample: Vacant Stare (black) and Transorbital (speckled white/pink/blue/black). The Knitting It Up kit will be customized for the winner, who can consult with Annie and view her pallete to choose a colourway.
A few caveats:
- In Store Sales (which I love and appreciate so much!) will not qualify for the draw.
- Customers using a discount or promo code will not be entered in the draw.
Thanks for checking out my work and find me on Rav if you have questions!
Side-to-side tee knit in fingering weight. Modification guide included.
Colour-blocked poncho knit in chunky weight yarn.
I've had a few messages from knitters working on my Four Score sweater asking for techniques for tightening up that annoying column of loose purl stitches that often appear right after your column of knit stitches.
Rather than try to type this all up I made a quick little video. I hope this helps!
Please excuse the state of my hands - it's been a long, dry winter here in Montreal.
Here are few thoughts on ways to modify your Galore sweater.
Drop the Neckline
The neckline as written is quite high - I find it comfortable to wear but I know some people prefer not to have something right up against their neck. To drop the neckline down, skip the first increase by casting on the number of stitches listed after that first increase. Knit about an inch and then start the short rows. Reduce all the following yoke-depth based instructions by 1" - and if you want to be really picky, all the colour changes too. I've got a version like this on my needles right now, and I added two extra sets of short rows by turning every 2 stitches instead of every four, but I'm not sure I love it yet. I'll update this post once I separate the sleeves and try it on.
Widen the Sleeves
The logic of this pattern - the way each section of 1x1 rib grows to become a five-stitch repeat makes it tough to modify one element without modifying another. However, adding four stitches to your initial cast on would make five additional stitches available for each sleeve. You will need to add 2 stitches to each of the sleeve sections when you place your markers and remember that all your stitch counts (except in the body section) will be affected. If you want the cuff to fit the same way, you'll need to add decrease rounds - at least 2. In some sizes, you'll add the final decrease round, in others, you'll eliminate it. (Don't worry - it'll be obvious which applies to your size once you get working.)
Add Bust Dart Shaping
Bust darts can be an essential element of getting a good fit, especially in a slim-fitting sweater like Galore. If you've ever had your sweaters ride up in front, bust darts are for you. There are two types of bust darts: vertical and horizontal. The slip-stitch patterning on this sweater makes it an unsuitable candidate for vertical bust darts. This is a technique that adds width over the bust area - and in bottom-up sweaters, those additional stitches are usually decreased away in the sleeve and neck shaping. Galore is a good candidate for horizontal short-row bust shaping, though. This technique adds length to the front of the sweater, creating a convex area for the bust to fit in, and eliminating that riding up.
My favourite tutorial on this is from Tess Knits, and within it she links to a very good piece from Knitty. Tess's post covers two important things. One: that while cup-size can be a guide for calculating bust darts, it can be misleading. Two: A less onerous place to take measurements (many tutorials ask for a plethora of measurements that are hard to take yourself).
If you successfully knit the short-row neck shaping at the beginning of the pattern, you can knit short-row bust darts. Mark the 'side seam' stitches when you begin working the body (the column of knit/slip stitches in the underarm) and use the same method for avoiding the need to resolve your wraps: offset your wrap-and-turns by one stitch on the wrong side so you're always wrapping a purl-facing stitch.
(Of course, you can resolve your wraps if you want to! I usually do hide the last "wrong side" one when I come around to it from the front on that first full round after short rows.)